The wines of A Coruña, an Atlantic land that is also drunk

Discovering A Coruña’s Wine Scene

Betanzos – Reviving the Lexitimo Grape

In the northern part of the province, Betanzos is known for its deep‑rooted winemaking history that goes back to the Middle Ages. The area lies between the Mandeo and Mendo valleys, where the Atlantic climate and fertile soils give rise to fresh, delicate wines with a distinct character.

A key focus here is the recovery of the lexitimo (sometimes called “exit white”) grape, an emblematic variety that has become a symbol of local differentiation.

• Lorenzo Bescansa – This winery has boosted the prestige of lexitimo through artisanal, technically rigorous production, creating wines that highlight the grape’s aromatic freshness.
• Bodegas Rilo – A family‑run estate that blends tradition with innovation. They produce a lexitimo sparkling wine made with the champenoise method and a late‑harvest doce lexitimo, offering richer, sweeter profiles.

Barbanza and Iria – Creativity Meets Atlantic Landscape

Moving south, the Barbanza and Iria zone showcases a more experimental spirit. The wines here are light, aromatic, and balanced, drawing from a mix of native grapes such as albariño, treixadura, caiño, brancellao, espadeiro, and mencía.

• Between the Rivers – This winery combines generations of experience with modern techniques, always respecting the vineyard’s natural environment.
• Cazapitas – Known for minimal‑intervention wines, Cazapitas emphasizes the huge genetic diversity of Galician vines, letting the fruit speak for itself.
• Antonio Saborido (Esteiro, Boiro) – A small producer whose wines are crafted to pair perfectly with seafood and local cheeses, reflecting a tight link to the ocean.

Ribeira do Ulla – Part of the Rías Baixas DO

The Ribeira do Ulla area ties A Coruña to one of Galicia’s most famous wine denominations, the Rías Baixas DO, through its Ribeira do Ulla subzone. Here, Albariño expresses nuances typical of the Atlantic interior, offering a slightly different take on the classic variety.

• Maria Manuela – This estate merges wine production with wine tourism, offering tours that combine landscape views, family stories, and sustainable practices.
• Castle of Augustus – Rooted in family tradition and smallholdings, this winery delivers consistent quality that you can find in restaurants and specialty shops across the region.

Eight Geo‑Destinations to Explore A Coruña

Beyond the glass, A Coruña’s territory is divided into eight geodestinations that highlight its varied heritage, nature, and seafaring culture:

1. Ferrolterra
2. As Mariñas
3. Costa da Morte
4. Terras de Santiago
5. Comarca de Ordes
6. Ulla‑Tambre‑Mandeo
7. Ría de Muros‑Noia
8. Barbanza‑Arousa

Each destination offers a mix of coastline, inland scenery, gastronomy, history, and contemporary culture, making it easy to experience the province’s Atlantic identity through both sight and taste.

Conclusion

A Coruña proves that great wine isn’t limited to the most famous zones. From the historic lexitimo revival in Betanzos, through the inventive Atlantic blends of Barbanza and Iria, to the Albariño‑focused offerings of Ribeira do Ulla, the province presents a mosaic of flavors rooted in authenticity, native varieties, and a deep connection to the landscape. Paired with its eight geodestinations, A Coruña invites visitors—especially younger explorers—to sip, wander, and discover a uniquely Galician wine experience.

Source

Images Credit: viajar.elperiodico.com